Dog training begins virtually at birth. Dogs that are handled and petted by humans regularly during the first eight weeks of life are generally much more amenable to being trained and living in human households. Ideally, puppies should be placed in their permanent homes between about 8 and 10 weeks of age. In some places it is against the law to take puppies away from their mothers before the age of 8 weeks. Before this age, puppies are still learning tremendous amounts of socialization skills from their mother. Puppies are innately more fearful of new things during the period from 10 to 12 weeks, which makes it harder for them to adapt to a new home.
Puppies can begin learning tricks and commands as early as 8 to 12 weeks of age; the only limitations are the pup’s stamina, concentration, and physical coordination. It is much easier to live with young dogs that have already learned basic commands such as sit. Waiting until the puppy is much older and larger and has already learned bad habits makes the training much more difficult.
There are some professional trainers who disagree with this idea, particularly those who train working dogs, detection dogs, police dogs, etc. They feel that obedience work shouldn’t start until the dog is at least a year old, or after the prey drive has fully developed. These trainers also take the position that spaying and neutering is harmful to the training process, again because of its negative impact on the dog’s prey drive.
Next: Dog Training part III – Communicating with the dog
Question by ALISON K: flea prevention?
moving to tx from nv. don’t have fleas here. need to know what is best for my cats and dog for flea and tick prevention. is frontline plus and advantage and bio spot. all the same and is it 100% effective. don’t want fleas on animals and freak them out. thanks
Answer by rafayel frontline is good. give them spot on treatment once a month for 6 months then every 3 months thereafter. Try using sevin 85 for the environment. hope this helps.
There are big changes afoot for me this year, and one of the biggest is more focus on both clicker training and nose work. I’ve posted a few times about nose work over the holidays. (There is more coming.) Here is the first in a series of posts about clicker training.
In November I enrolled in the Karen Pryor Academy Dog Trainer Program. Karen Pryor and her students are best known for clicker training. This is a departure for me. I’ll get into what lead me to this decision in a later post. Today I’d like to share some of the fun homework I had over the holidays.
Capturing a Behavior
Capturing is exactly when it sounds like: catching the dog (or other animal) doing the behaviors we’re looking for!
The first step is to figure out what you want to train. This is best done not by deciding what you want and then training the dog, but observing what he does and then decided what we want to work with. What does your dog do on his own, with no encouragement from you? Does he sit? Lie down? Lift a paw? Tilt his head? Any behavior you see can be captured.
Once you have selected the behavior you want, get your clicker, a bunch of treats, a timer, and a pad and paper. If you have not worked with your dog before with a clicker, take some time to click-and-treat, click-and-treat etc., for a few minutes to make sure he understands that a click means a treat is coming.
Now watch your dog. Every time he does what you want click and treat. Here I am starting to capture Buddha’s paw lift:
You want to click *as the dog performs the behavior* not afterwards. It takes some time to get the timing right. I chose a nice "big" behavior to capture with Buddha so I had room to be sloppy.
It’s important to break up your training sessions into 2 or 3 minute chunks – don’t work for so long that you or your dog get tired or discouraged. You can mix in some play in between, and this training may take a few days. Remember, it’s supposed to be fun!
Putting it On Cue
After a while your dog will start to offer the behavior more often. He will start to expect the click when he does what your looking for, and you will start to anticipate when he will do it. Now it is time to start counting.
Set your timer and keep count of how many times you click. (If you can get someone to help you, they can keep count.) When you can get to 10 or more clicks a minute, it’s time for the cue! A cue can be anything that your dog can see, hear, feel or smell. (Detection dogs use the smell of drugs as a cue.)
When you see your dog is about to perform the behavior, give the cue and then click and treat when he does it. Lather, rinse, repeat.
After some time you will see that your dog is waiting to hear (or see) the cue. Continue to click and treat when you ask for it, but do not reward him for doing it on his own. Buddha was having problems with this in the video above. This will teach your dog that when you’re working together, he should perform the behavior only when asked. At the same time don’t reward him for doing something else when you give the cue. Make sure he understands the relationship between the cue and the behavior.
The dog training program is a comprehensive course. So comprehensive that after I was done capturing behaviors with a dog, I was required to work with another species!
I am working on getting Spike to peck his mirror on cue. It’s a very different game, but I am having a great time with it!
I have started a Youtube playlist right here. It has a few more videos on it, and I will be adding more as I go.
Diamond Pet Foods has withdrawn from distribution the following date codes of Premium Edge Finicky Adult Cat and Premium Edge Hairball cat: RAF0501A22X 18lb., RAF0501A2X 6 lb., RAH0501A22X 18 lb., RAH0501A2X 6lb. The calls from pet owners or veterinarians regarding this issue have been centered in the Rochester, NY area. All retail outlets shipped the above lots were contacted, asking them to pull the product from the store shelves. The retailers were also asked to contact their customers via email or telephone requesting them to check the date code of the food. However, if you or anyone you know has these date codes of Premium Edge cat food, please return them to your retailer.
Symptoms displayed by an affected cat will be neurological in nature. Any cats fed these date codes that display these symptoms should be immediately taken to a veterinarian.
Product testing proved no contaminants were discovered in the cat food; however the cat foods were deficient in thiamine. Diamond tracked the vitamin premix lot number that was utilized in these particular cat foods and have performed testing on another lot of Premium Edge cat food that used the same vitamin premix, and it was not deficient in thiamine. No other neurological signs have been reported on any other product manufactured by Diamond Pet Foods.
Question by Carol: Infection…………………….?
I started getting fingered few days back and now getting a burning/hurting sensation in the outer vagina where it appears
red. I tried warm saltwater washes and gets some relief from this, but after few hours the burning returns again. I tend to get yeast infections around my period times always (treated with Candid V), but this one feels different with burning rather than itching. Does this show signs of cut or infection? Can I try the Candid V cream for this or are there any home remedies for it to heal? Please advice.
Answer by Sam if it is a burning then there is a good possibility that your boyfriend cut/scratched you with his nails. It is a bit painful and burns badly when you pee but it should go away in a few days.
When we humans sneeze all over ourselves, we are viewed as rude, disgusting germ factories. Observers stare at the sneezer with disdain while others run from the room to save themselves from whatever contagion they believe has been set alight.
However, when animals, particularly baby animals, sneeze all over themselves and others, it's cause celebre – a viral video goldmine. To prove our point, herewith are our favorite sneezing baby animal videos of all time.